Massimo Bonini SS14

Art Director and Artwork by Akmal Shaukat

Brett Bailey; Interview for Homme Style Magazine Issue 6 Fantasy

When did dressing up begin for you? Dressing for pleasure began for me at age 5 when I first tried on my grandmother’s fruit-adorned pumps. My early fashion influences were Betty’s red lipstick, piles of colorful shoes, Bob Fosse musicals on VHS, imported kimonos from WW11 and a little red sequined tuxedo I wore at my first dance recital. In an interview I read that your grandmother Betty was a big influence on you. How is Betty doing today? Betty Bailey is on the top of the world right now. She’s 90 years old and still LIVING! Every time we speak she repeats phrases like “Your gona be a big star!” and “Horay for Hollywood!” She will always be my best friend and inspiration. Oh the things I would do, to walk a day in her shoes! Tell me your personal journey becoming Betty, and the struggles you faced? I’ve always told myself I will one day become the women I desire. Currently I’m working on a project where I transform into Betty Bailey, a living legend in my eyes. I know I have big shoes to fill, that’s part of the responsibility I’ve set for myself. One of the struggles I have faced is the acceptance from my biological Mother. She thinks I’ve lost my mind and tells me I will never be as famous as her girlfriend Heidi Fleiss. Too be honest, I hope she’s right! How Betty affected or influenced your aesthetic today? Thanks to Betty I still live in the 20th century of showbiz and glamour. Currently I’m dreaming of a Hollywood Babylon type of lifestyle. Your latest video with Ellen titled “Do Not Disturb” debuted at Diane Pernet’s film festival. What was that experience like? Shooting with Ellen is always a debaucherous rendezvous with a happy ending. How did you and Ellen Von Unwerth get together? Ellen and I connected on the dance floor of Hollywood’s nightclub “Smoke and Mirrors.” She hated the fact I wore real fur but loved that it was my grandmothers! How do you think social media has influenced us today? Social media can be an invasion of privacy. If you don’t monitor the content you can be drowned in a bucket of useless information. Personally, I would rather throw on some dancing shoes and stomp the blues. Speaking of social media, you use the hash tag #midnightsaunters. What does this phrase mean to you? #afterhours #runway #stomping Favourite motto? “I’d rather be absolutely ridiculous than absolutely boring” -Marilyn Monroe Do you find yourself having to compromise creatively? I feel that my vision is understood and appreciated by the people that surround me. Of course we don’t always see eye-to-eye but the conflict keeps us entertained. What do you think of the dynamic of the current times? Do you think fashion has become more commercial than breaking new territory? Although I love bad cliché’s, trendy fashion just doesn’t inspire me. The media curates what they think is an idealistic image. I call her Stephanie; she usually wears Tory Burch Ballet flats and clutches her fake Chanel pearls. Unfortunately that just doesn’t do it for me, I need women who break boundaries and walk to their own beat. What future designers are you looking forward to watching their vision grow? Iris Van Herpen, Jan Taminau, Zana Bayne, The Blonds, Heidi Lee, Alexandre Vauthier and my personal favorite, Brad Callahan aka BCalla. You just curated an entire magazine with Naomi Campbell on the cover. What was that experience like? Curating Schon with Naomi Campbell on the cover was a completely organic creative process. We made it up as we went along and documented every pleasurable moment of it. If I had to do it all over again I would fire everyone and burn everything. Besides living a colorful lifestyle, styling icons, designing hats, and becoming Betty Bailey what’s next in your future? In May I am directing a multimedia Exhibition curated with a group of fiercely talented NYC artists and top supermodels. We’re creating a surreal experience that will assault your senses and open your mind. In this performance Betty Bailey will welcome you down the rabbit hole, Stomp down the catwalk and dance to her dementia in the sky! PHOTOGRAPHY BY ELIAS TAHAN TEXT BY AKMAL SHAUKAT

ANDREA POMPILIO; Interview for Homme Style Magazine Issue 6 Fantasy

Ci sono storie che ancora prima di metterle su carta sembrano già scritte. Quando leggi che un bambino è cresciuto nel negozio della nonna, dove giocava coi tessuti, inevitabile pensare che da grande quel bambino abbia provato a diventare un designer. Nel caso del marchigiano Andrea Pompilio, quel ragazzino non solo ha sentito il richiamo della moda, facendone una professione, ma è diventato uno degli astri nascenti dello stile Made in Italy, uno di quei nomi del tanto atteso e sospirato ricambio generazionale nel fashion system del nostro Paese. Classe 1973, Pompilio nei geni ha la creatività di famiglia, il papà è architetto, la mamma appassionata di pittura, e comprende presto quale vuole essere il suo percorso. Si diploma in fashion design all’Istituto d’Arte di Pesaro e, come gran parte dei giovani che vogliano specializzarsi, una tappa milanese, che per Pompilio coincide con un master all’Istituto Marangoni, è d’obbligo. Poi il designer prende il volo verso collaborazioni importanti, nomi che a trovarli in un curriculum tutti insieme fan girare la testa e ben comprendere la cifra qualitativa del personaggio: Alessandro dell’Acqua, Prada, Calvin Klein e Yves Saint Laurent. Esperienze che modellano il gusto dello stilista, ne iniziano a preparare la strada e a caratterizzarne il lavoro, dove il rigore della sartorialità può incontrare uno stile più rilassato, che gioca a mescolare i riferimenti, la tradizione che si amalgama con un’attitudine urbana, ma anche con uno spirito bohemien. L’esordio con una linea propria è nel gennaio 2010, si parte con una collezione maschile, quella per la stagione a/i 2010-2011, e gli addetti ai lavori subito prendono nota del nome, tanto che quando si presenta all’edizione di giugno 2011 del prestigioso concorso “Who’s on next?” sponsorizzato da Vogue e da Pitti Immagine Uomo, per le collezioni maschili, la vince. Che Pompilio inizi a piacere è chiarissimo quando alla successiva presentazione uomo la stampa internazionale arriva in massa. Il sottoscritto incrocia Scott Schuman, il noto fondatore di The Sartorialist, che esce estasiato dalla visione della collezione, incensando il designer. E questo non stupisce, perché il guardaroba pensato dal designer sembra modellato su una wish list dell’uomo contemporaneo. Per la p/e 2013 le maglie a righe oversize da indossare a strati, i bermuda comodi, anche in pelle, il giacchino doppiopetto color senape, le stampe tappezzeria per il completo da indossare spezzato, i mocassini ai piedi delineano uno stile a metà fra il mod e il preppy, diventando dei must-have desiderabili non solo dalle fashion victim, ma dai tutti quei ragazzi che sono attenti al proprio look. Pompilio sembra interpretare i desideri di questa generazione, tratteggiarne il guardaroba con facilità, forse perché è la sua generazione e pensa a cosa vorrebbe indossare lui, fatto è che la sua sfilata, sempre nell’ambito di Pitti di cui è guest designer, a giugno 2012 è un successo, e ne scrive bene anche Matthew Schneier, critico di style.com, solitamente parco di complimenti. Oggi quella di Pompilio è una realtà importante che si conferma stagione dopo stagione, tutti i capi del designer sono prodotti in Italia, realizzati in laboratori fra le Marche, la Campania, la Toscana, quindi figli di un know how nel settore che depone a favore di un’alta qualità, mentre la distribuzione arriva in tutti i continenti, comprendendo negozi multi brand di culto come Luisa Via Roma a Firenze, Boon The Shop a Seoul, Hankyu a Tokyo, Jeffrey a New York. All’ultimo Pitti accanto all’uomo una capsule collection dedicata alla donna apre nuovi orizzonti per il designer. Su una moto vintage sembra sfrecciare verso mille avventure cittadine una giovane coppia affiatata, il lui di Pompilio, che indossa dry jeans larghi, una camicia a scacchi colorata, una felpa con una pin-up anni Cinquanta, magari con un peacoat giallo per proteggersi dal fresco serale, mentre lei è una figura forte e indipendente, che indossa una giacca rosa, sotto a un cappotto a larghi check, bordato di pelliccia a righe, pantaloni comodi e un foulard con le frange. E domani? La storia è ancora da scrivere, ma attendiamo con una certa curiosità, sicuri che Andrea Pompilio saprà ancora elettrizzare i nostri animi di fashion addicted per molto tempo ancora. PHOTOGRAPHY BY CRISTINA CAPUCCI TEXT BY GIUSEPPE CECCARELLI MODELS: ARTHUR JACQUIER AT ELITE MILANO, TAYLOR COWAN AT INDEPENDENT MEN MILANO & JOEL AT 2MORROW MODELS MILANO ALL MODELS WEAR ANDREA POMPILIO

Mo Anwar Interview for Homme Style Magazine Issue 6 Fantasy

Where are you from Mo, can you tell me a little about your background? My parents moved over from Morocco to Amsterdam when they were young, but I’ve been raised in Amsterdam since the day I was born here. So I’d say Dutch with some Moroccan roots. In terms of where I am today, I’ve always had an obsession with men’s’ fashion and magazines. I’d look over the clothes and think about how I had to be well presented. At the same time, I thought the only way to get the clothes was to have a good job and earn money, and so I started at law school, which I hated. My granddad once said to me “find a job you like and you’ll never have to work again”, and although he stole the quote from somewhere, it’s always stuck with me, and so I dropped out of there and started a new degree in journalism. Was it something you always pursued or did it happen organically, what gave you the idea? Whilst studying, I noticed the front pages of the magazines masthead where I was looking at the editors and directors and I thought to myself I want to be one of those people. It’s these people that gave me an escape and inspired me when I was younger. And I want to give that same feeling to someone else. At 19, I got myself a job as an assistant at a magazine called Avant Garde, which at the time was a high end women’s fashion magazine. I did that for a year and started attending shows; I learnt everything about women’s fashion through experience. And then from women’s to menswear? I just naturally found myself leaning towards the men’s shows and pieces. I love an Alaïa dress as much as anyone else, but I found a new challenge in selecting and editing menswear, and then add to that the Dutch man’s personality, because he’s harder to read. When it comes to fashion I always loved a challenge so preferred to do something with menswear. I remember going to Florence for the Pitti and being inspired. I thought if this is men’s wear then I really need to know more about it. Therefore I continued at journalist school, and then got a job in PR office which I did for 3 years, after I got a job offered at The Big Black Book As the fashion editor of The Big Black Book, can you tell me a little of your day to day role? Im responsible for updating our readers about the latest fashion trends by attending all men’s wear shows and presentations. In previous recessions, fashion and style were acting out with nothing to lose attitude, the work became really bold and expressive. What do you think of the dynamic of the current times, do you think fashion has become more commercial of point of sale, for the “fashion man”? I can’t speak Milan or Paris but I can speak on behalf of the Dutch Man, We work very creatively, and we think of our advertisers. However, this is not a reason to cut back and not be creative I think because of the recession people are going through a variant in their life, Also, due to the internet, life is moving at a fast pace. Boredom comes quickly therefore we have to provide new products to maintain interest. At the end it’s all about keeping the readers satisfied. What was your first assignment with The Big Black Book? As I had to go to the shows in Milan and Paris, My first assignment was a trend report .As my prior writing experience was in PR, the change in style was quite hard and a challenge. And how was it to see your first work in print in The Big Black Book? It was overwhelming. I remember showing that publication practically to everyone How would you describe your personal style? I prefer to be classic, with a twist. It can take years to find your own personal style. I have a big weakness for vintage. I also love to experiment with different prints and fabrics and colours. My style is evolving with age. As I am getting older, my approach to fashion is maturing. Having fun and making mistakes is the key to developing a personal style. I never follow trends or force a certain style just because something looks good on someone else it doesn’t mean it looks good on you. Being fashionable and stylish are two very different aspects and not to be confused together. I noticed for The Big Black Book you don’t use a model or a celebrity on the cover is they any reason for that? The Big Black Book is black, classic and timeless. And what we stand for. If we used a talent on the cover, it would no longer be timeless. Also a black cover separates it from other publications. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARCO VAN RIJT TEXT BY AKMAL SHAUKAT

Kyle Anderson; Interview for Homme Style Magazine Issue 6 Fantasy

Where are you from Kyle, can you tell me a bit about your background and your family? I grew up near chicago in a small suburb. And I have lived in NY for 10 years. You are the Accessories Director of Marie Claire US. Tell us about your role and what is involved? At Marie Claire I oversee all of the accessories coverage to in the magazine. I go to fashion week in NY, Milan and Paris, I go to all of the appointments with the designers and I come up with concepts each month on the best way to cover accessories for the magazine. I do a few pages in the front of the magazine of only accessories and then almost every month we do an accessories well story in the well of the magazine. We see a lot, its fun to decide what goes in to the magazine and what doesn’t. What do you enjoy the most? I enjoy always seeing new things and working with beautiful accessories. I get bored very easily so its fun to be able to see new bags, shoes, and jewelry on a daily basis. Every minute of every day there is always something new to see and to do and concepts to come up with. I love that. How did it all begin for you? I was gay. I was trapped in a small town with a bunch of close minded people. It made me want to create things and see the world and for me that was fashion. I used to read fashion magazines to sort of escape my surroundings. I dreamed of NY, Paris, fashion ,runways, models, designers. Also my best friends mom was addicted to shopping. Our whole life revolved around shopping and fashion. Always waiting for the next shopping trip. Was it something you always pursued or did it happen organically? I was obsessed with clothes, buying clothes, dressing up, wearing cool clothes since before elementary school. I asked my mom once why did my little brother have so many toys. She said you didn’t want toys u only wanted racks of clothes. Its all I cared about. What I wore. What was your first gig? My first gig in fashion? My first ever fashion moment was the day I moved to NY 10 years ago was my first day ever at my internship at Esquire. I interned esquire. Cosmogirl, marie claire, vogue, Elle and then did some freelance work, assisting stylist and also in the fashion closet at Vanity fair, then cosmopolitan and then ELLE. I was obsessed with elle. I really wanted to work there and my dream came true. I worked at elle after that for 6.5 years. And now its been just over a year ive been at marie claire. How was it to see your first work in print? Exciting. I can still remember the first page I ever did. It was a sunglass page at elle. I was the eyewear editor when I was the accessories assistant. I remember calling in like 300 pairs of sunglasses to look at and choose, maybe, 10. How would you describe your style? I like black. Im usually wearing almost head-to-toe black. For me, I like silver accessories, I usually just wear my silver and blk rolex everyday. Maybe a funky shoe and funky bag. Overall I like rock n’ roll style. Black leather, im usually wearing givenchy. I love it. Has your opinion of the industry changed much in the time you’ve been working in it? Im not as impressed now. I see the recycling of ideas. I used to think every designer was a genius. I was so in awe. Now most im not. There are a few that Im amazed by. But im saddened a lot but people copying each other. After working for over 7 years now I recognize instantly oh, that shoe is a copy of that other designers or I we say I saw that bag last year at so-and-so’s showroom. Etc. In previous recessions, fashion and style were acting out with nothing to lose attitude, the work became really bold and expressive. What do you think of the dynamic of the current times, do you think fashion has become more commercial of point of sale, then breaking new territory? I think overall designers are SUPER safe these days. Im rarely shocked sitting at show. Things are very commerical I think. People want to sell and survive. But I can also respect people doing things that last and in super luxe materials. A simple black croc handbag with minimal details can work with a ton of different looks. Not everything always has to have all of the bells and whistles attached. Has the economic crisis in America affected the content you run in magazines? No. I always shoot what I love. I love things from many different kinds of designers at many different pricepoints. I splurge when I really want something and I steal when I can to get a look when I don’t necessarily need to buy it at a high price. My two favorite designers I recommend to girls are Givenchy and zara. What’s next? Any exciting prospects or projects you would like to mention? Everything. Check out all of my stories coming up! Follow me on twitter! Check out my blog! Lots to see and more to come. Are there any mediums you would still like to explore? Yes I want to do more styling. And I want to do tv. I want to connect with more people than just sitting at desk. I love interacting with readers and fans and followers and showing them my world and what I love and what I see on a hour-by-hour basis. Who are some of your icons and why? I don’t have people how affect the way I dress, per se, but of my edit for the magazine I draw inspiration from all of the icons from movies, music, etc. My favorite is Madonna. Forever. Oh and Regina George. Shes the queen bee. PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEANDRO JUSTEN TEXT BY AKMAL SHAUKAT

Jeremy Kost Interview for Homme Style Magazine Issue 6 Fantasy

Where are you from Jeremy, can you tell me a bit about your background. I grew up in Houston, Texas and went to college at SMU in Dallas... I grew most of my life super overweight (250lbs) and closeted... Majorly in denial with who I was. How did it all begin for you? Oddly enough, my work all really happened as a mistake. I was working with a large nightclub in Washington, DC when I hit on a guy in Philadelphia (circa 2000/2001). He ended up becoming one of my best friends at the time and I began staying with he and his boyfriend in NYC at least once a month or more (for nearly 2.5 years). His boyfriend was coatchecking and bartending at relatively sleazy gay bars in the East Village and when I went for the first time, I was massively uncomfortable. Pedro (the boyfriend) had a Polaroid camera on the wall of their apartment and I took it with me to the club as a sort of defense mechanism (I think...) I realized that I enjoyed making photographs and they were actually kinda sorta good. I kept it up and the rest is history. Was it something you always pursued or did it happen organically, what gave you the idea? See above... totally organically and honest... I feel like my entire artistic development and career has been super organic. What was your first gig? My first print editorial of sorts was for Kelly Bensimon’s debut issue of Elle Accessories. I did a “party page” of sorts. How was it to see your first work in print? It was awesome. I honestly don’t remember what it felt like, but I do remember that I was super excited about shooting it and then having it come out. How would you describe your style? Every artist has their own voice... I’d like to think that mine tends to be steeped in honesty and visceral tension. It totally varies based on which body of work we’re discussing... dragqueens or guys or celebrities... Similar ideas are being addressed in different ways (facade, transformation, identity, deconstruction) Tell me more about your working method? Are you selective with your subjects or parties? I don’t really shoot in social context anymore, but I am absolutely selective with my subjects. As it relates to the nightlife characters, they tend to be “outsiders even within an outside culture”. I think of them as metaphors for this idea of transformation (whether for the night or permanent). As for the guys, I’ve never really thought about shooting guys based on how big of a name they are/were. If I found them sexy and right for my work, I’m into it. They all tend to be that “U.S. boy next door” sort of guy though... Tell me more about your series of photos of boys? Well, I’m super excited to say that my first monograph of my work with guys will be coming out this Fall with Damiani! It’s tentatively called “OH! U Pretty Things” (after the David Bowie song). I hope that nearly 98% of the work in the book will have never been seen before As a whole though, the work is about my own former body issues manifested through the relative perfection of my subject. They exist as a reference to the guys I longed after (deeply buried) when I was growing up in Texas and also the previously mentioned notion of physical identity. Has your opinion of the industry changed much in the time you’ve been working in it? Ha, totally. I think I’ve lost the patience for bullshit. As it pertains to fashion, I find most fashion to be another form of “drag” anyway. I’ve always looked at myself as an artist who’s work happens to be applied in a fashion context. I really try hard to not change how I work just because it’s for an editorial or whatever else it might be. In previous recessions, fashion and style were acting out with nothing to lose attitude, the work became really bold and expressive. What do you think of the dynamic of the current times, do you think fashion has become more commercial of point of sale, then breaking new territory? I still think that fashion has to be an expression of self. Personally, I’m forever in vintage tshirts and jeans/shorts. I’ve been that way for quite some time and don’t know that it’s going to change any time soon! I’m also sooooo not one to give an expert opinion on fashion to be perfectly honest. Has the economic crisis in America affected the way you work? Not at all... the discontinuation of Polaroid has! What’s next? Any exciting prospects or projects you would like to mention? See above for the book.... I open a show next week (3/14) in Geneva of new silkscreen paintings from my celebrity photographs. Are there any mediums you would still like to explore? I’m definitely pushing my silkscreen practice and continuing my work in video this year... Who are some of your icons or who you find inspirational and why? Warhol, Basquiat, Bruce Nauman, Grace Jones, Mick Jagger... no need to say why... it should be obvious. Text by Akmal Shaukat

MANHOOD by Joseph Lally - HOMME STYLE MAGAZINE Issue 6 FANTASY

PHOTOGRAPHY: Joseph Lally FASHION: Matthew Ellenberger MODEL: Jeffrey Tomsik at Ford NYC